Thanks to 'tomtom' we were able to navigate our way out of Roma. Mum had warned me of the tolls and they were the first challenge. We managed to get in the wrong lane, and were speaking to an operator that didn't speak english. After no progress and a line of angry Italian drivers behind us, they lifted the barrier and we were on the road again!
All road trips need their sounds, and we had ours! Jamming to our Czech jazz cd we brought in Prague, all felt complete. The other cd was a compilation reggae cd that my mate Lachie gave to us in the Caymans. Also another hit banger! Chur bro!
So we're coming up to our turn off for Cassino, and we hit another toll. What they required was a ticket out of Roma - the one we f'd up, and we are then presented with a 81 Euro ticket. Killer!
Heoi, we then arrive at our cute accomodation - Hotel La Pace. Such lovely and helpful people they are. If you ever travel to Cassino, stay here whanau! Anyway, we get to our room and have an absolutely stunning view of Monte Cassino, with the evening Italian sun setting on the maunga - it was mesmerising
After unpacking we decide to venture out - to a basically deserted town. All shops are closed for siesta. So Dee and I then locate some vino and head back to our room, to research and study up on some of the korero of our soldiers here in Cassino. I am so sad of what happened, but also so very proud of them - especially our 28th Maori Battalion and their kaha and mana over the battle for the railway.
After a big day, we decide to eat in at the hotel and get in an early night for apopo.
Day 2
We wake to the whole entire town, rohe, submerged in morning fog. Something wicked - not evil but impressive. We get our maps and begin to navigate up the maunga. We eventually break through the fog (cloud forrest like) and hit the morning sun! And it is hot!
We get to the monastery, the abbey, and it has such presence. Before the monastery, it was an ancient place of worship for the Romans - for Apollo. Chur! Instead of an hour guided tour for 35 Euro, Dee guides us through with a 3 Euro book! After our thorough tour, we decend the maunga.
But on the way down, we visit and acknowledge the Polish urupa. As it was them that finally took Cassino in mid 1944. Many lay there, and have a huge mermorial.
After visiting the Polish, we head for the Commonwealth urupa, in search of our Kiwi "boys"... In the fog, we make it and it is so very cold. We enter the urupa and are silently greeted by a sea of crosses. We quitely walk through trying to find them, Canadian, English... Many many men, boys...
We finally find our Kiwi / Maori boys, and they are situated in the front right hand corner, in rows of 23, many deep, and two sets of them, 100s. Dee and I walk past every headstone of every soldier. Many last names are familar, not necessarily realtions of people I know, but reminded me how easily this could have been my generation...
Dee and I have brought over two poppies from home, to lay for our soldiers. We find two young Maori soldiers (Te Kuru and Ruha) and sung a waiata, mihi and leave. We will not forget them.
Next we make our way for the Cassino Railway, where the Maori Battalion fought so hard for, and paid for heavily.
"Of the 200 A and B Company boys who started the attack only 40 Ngapuhi and 26 Arawa were able to walk out with a few dazzed stragglers finding there way out under cover of the next night. The 28th Maori Battalion suffered 128 casualties and the valiant un-armed Kiwi sappers lost 30 souls with the galant 4 Indian Division battalions suffering very high casualties and could do absolutely no more.
As humble as this railway station memorial may appear it has huge significance to the Maori and indeed to 30 Pakeha families here at home, where a few 1000 metres away from it their boys lie at the beautifull Cassino Commonwealth War Graves Cemetary, proudly part of the town of Cassino.
As stated above Major-General Howard Kippenberger after only five weeks as overall Commander of the 2NZEF disastrously walked onto a German land mine while attempting to get a broad out look and view the strategic situation from Mount Trocchio on the 2nd of March 1944. The Maori Battalion on learning of this quickly decided to send a letter of condolence and wishes as a mark of high regard for the General for a rapid recovery from his wounds they being, one foot blown off and the other leg amputated below the knee. The letter of address was signed by the Officers and NCOs of every platoon in the Battalion. The General in spite of his condition insisted on replying and later had the 28 Battalion letter framed"
We find the memorial at the Cassino railway station. It was put up in 1994 by returned service men. 50 years on... Dee and I are here 70 years on - and still we have not forgotten. We left a pounamu on the plaque there for them, and the sun is finally breaking through the fog! After all the exploring we nail some of Cassino's finest pasta, collect more vino on the way home, soak in a bath to warm up, and slowly prepare for dinner.
We are leaving the hotel the next morning and decide to gift the hotel owner a book on Cassino, of poems from NZ, he really appreciated it. Because of his generosity, in knowledge and in spirit he was the right person. He suggested a place for Dee and I to eat, and we venture out again! We get there and their business hours do throw us one final time... It is 6.45pm and the restaurant doesn't open until 7.30pm... What to do? Shop! I had seen a few days early a jumper with rapper Biggie Smalls on it - so we mission back, get it and head back for tea. Final dinner was fine; but the burger no bun. Ordering in Italy, is like a box of chocolates - you never know what you're gonna get.
We check out, and are given a large photo print from the hotel owner, very kind gesture and a bottle of wine! We get advice upon leaving about our 81 euro fine out Roma, and tells us to head for Punto Blue - we get there and the fine is waved and we only pay the 7 euro fee - winning!
And that was Cassino.
"I te tonga o te ra, tae noa ki tona aranga ake, ka maumahara tonu tatou ki a ratou - kei wareware tatou"
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