Istanbul, Turkey

Well whānau, after about 6 months taking this trip, we thought it was only right to finish this amazing kaupapa and journey off with the final 4 countries of the Tu & Dee World Tour. In our defense, things have been chaotic since arriving back in Aotearoa and we hadn't really found the time or the head space (as one does when they're overseas cos' they're living the dream) to write the remaining blogs. We had a wedding, a whānau reunion, a great loss of an uncle and a koroua and numerous kaupapa (including work and contracts) that has consumed our time.

Here we are in August and we've made a day free to do exactly this. To all of our travel followers, enjoy our last posts of this trip!

Istanbul - Turkey

Waking up from one of the toughest hangovers of the entire trip, Tu and I missioned to the London Train station to travel to Gatwick Airport to then catch a flight to Turkey. The train ride was... interesting. We almost missed the train as it wasn't clearly labelled (haha) but with a few friendly pommies giving us some advice, we were on our way. Arriving to Gatwick, we got sorted, had a classic English breaky at Jamie Olivers restaurant and off we were on another flight to another part of the world.

I remember arriving to Turkey and being really humbled by the feeling that we weren't so foreign to this place. Obviously Turkey and Aotearoa have a lot of history, but it felt 'nice' to be there. We didn't have to wait in the line with all of the foreigners who required a visa, we got to go straight on in. Felt choice.

After being picked up and shuttled through a city of 13 million, we arrived to the InterContinental Hotel situated in the middle of Taksim Square. Wow. What a hotel and what service. We checked in, they had received information that we were on our 'honeymoon'... hehe so had something special planned for our room. The hotel is immaculate, one of the best, actually the best InterCon hotel I've ever seen. Beautiful decor, sweeping views of the city and a real Middle Eastern feel to the whole place.

Our room. We walked in and there was a trail of petals in the bathroom floor in the shape of a heart. We then walk into the bedroom and there was our bed covered in red rose petals and more giant towel swans. Special! Thanks InterCon! That night, we decided to head out for dinner and then get some rest. We found an awesome restaurant/cafe right across the street and it's been so long I've forgotten the name. But the food was amazing! And SO cheap.

The next day, we awoke to a city by day, heaving with people, culture and religion. The music I think woke me up. I heard this sound of singing or chanting coming from outside. It was the prayer call. First time I'd ever heard such a sound and it was beautiful. I watched as the city passed by our level 13 hotel room overlooking the square. My first time to this part of the world.

The day began with hunting out a place to get some laundry done. Florence was our last washing load... After we found our way around the streets, we caught the subway and a tram to the part of Istanbul where the markets are. The Grand Bazaar and the Spice Markets. We figured there would be heaps of kai and sights to take in up there. Sure enough the bazaar is full of people, noise, bartering and colour. It's full on actually. I was worried about our bags and cameras and cellphones and just generally our safety (lol) but so long as we stuck together and didn't get too close in crowds (which is when the pick pocketing really happens). The colours are amazing. And the smells. We tried pomegranate juice freshly squeezed on the side of the road and all the vendors drink turkish tea all day and night. Small cute cups of tea with a cube of sugar dissolving is quite heavenly. The vendors also get their lunches delivered in small mobile food baskets which are brought hot and ready to eat. I guess they do it this way so that the vendors never have to leave their posts for a lunch break.

We had ice cream and saw the prayer time at one of the main places of worship in this area. Mostly men would wash their hands and feet in the provided basins and running water to cleanse themselves before they go into the whare karakia. There they would pray. It was actually quite moving watching from the side and trying to understand the ideals of Islam.

We found an awesome upstairs restaurant (high end it looked) and ate hummus, pita, salad and skewered bbq'd meats with a couple of glasses of wine and decided to head back and pick up our washing and call it an evening. As we had a big day the next day!

Galipolli
We were up at about 5.30am for a 6.30am pick up to head to Galipolli! Before we made the 3-4 hour van ride, we picked up some Aussies and headed out to this historical place for our ANZACs. On the trip, we stopped at a number of memorial sites including Anzac Cove, Chenuk Bair and spent some time listening to the histories of these places. The wairua at this place was certainly felt, there is an eerie feel in some places where you imagine what it might have been like for our hōia. Tu and I took poppies to Anzac Cove to leave and acknowledge our tūpuna and our whanaunga who died in the World War I. We stopped at one of the sites at Chenuk Bair and Tu and I went off to see our hōia Māori and their names etched into the stone memorials. I think particularly for Tu, this part of our trip was emotional. I remember him thinking that if he were born into this era, he would have had to go to war too. We both sang waiata and gave our mihi to our fallen tūpuna knowing they shall never be forgotten.

Day with Musti
We were very lucky to be greeted by one of my good friends I made on the Ship for World Youth from Turkey. He flew from Ankara to Istanbul to see us and show us his beautiful country. We immediately used our time and went to the Blue Mosque where I had to wear a a full length abaya and a scarf over my head so that we could go into the mosque. This particular mosque is open to the public to come and view inside. At perhaps 5 times of the day, the prayer music will beam out to all parts of the city that has a speaker as a reminder and encourager to go to karakia. There were people praying in one part of the mosque and visitors were allowed to be there so long as they were quiet, respectful and dressed appropriately. Obviously taking photos of anyone praying was prohibited, not to mention utterly rude. We sat and listened and was quiet, taking it all in and listening to Musti tell us about this religion. We then went to Hagia Sophia Church which originally used to be a Christian church when it was part of the Roman Empire, they then turned it into a mosque so you will see Christianity and Islam under the one roof of worship.

We then took a boat trip over to the Asian side of Turkey for more drinks and food! We took a ferry over to, again I forget the name, where the streets were lined with cafes, bars and restaurants. We found a neat place serving up Yakurr (it's like the strongest vodka you've ever tasted, but once you mix it with water, some sciency thing happens and it's turns white), sprinkled with a bit of food and we were on our way! Tu and I took a bus home late that night and managed to find where we were supposed to go.

The next day, we did our last mish for some good breakfast and then met back up with Musti and went to the a beautiful palace (I can't remember the name!). After tripping around the city sightseeing, we then returned to the Bazaar market so that Tu could go and buy himself some cheap market priced work shirts haha. I intitially thought it was a bad idea. I mean, we had no room for extra luggage, let alone extra money to buy extra luggage, but they turned out to be a great purchase, shot honey :) and then we headed back to our high end restaurant for dinner and some drinks with Musti. Our last meal in Istanbul before we flew out for the United Kingdom of Bahrain!

One night in London with Dan Harden

 With a bus ride from Paris to the English Channel, then a ferry across to the white cliffs of Dover, we finished with the final bus leg to London - and the Contiki was done! We said our goodbyes, and waited for one Daniel Harden.

Harden is one of my very good friends from Wellington, and I was looking forward to catching up with him! Anyway, he rocks up gangster black Merc and his uggboots - Zoolander styles, crack up! We quickly head back to his, for a quick shower and head off to a local English pub for some tappas and we get cracking into some wines! We share stories - of his not so good NZ xmas/nys experience and of our last few months around the world. 

The story of the engagement comes up and we are soon ordering  bottles of champagne! Harden very kindly looks after us, and after an entertaining night and a visit to the dairy (to buy more drinks) we head home. Celebration drinks go well into the night - Harden has work early the next morning, but still backs up - legend! We have early taxis, trains and flights to Istanbul to worry about...but the company and laughs are just too good! Anyway, we polish off all the champagne and bottles of Harden's Craggy Range NZ Pinots - and we're done! Highlights Dan talking about his Mexican guns he brought and how he got ripped off - story telling in another one of his traits. To end the night, we gift Harden a dark tangiwai pounamu toki (pendant) to say thank you manaaki, kia kaha and keep being the man in London!

After a horrible night's sleep (worrying about missing all the transport of the day), we finally check-in at Gatwick Airport. YES! We then nail some good kai at Jamie Oliver's cafe at the airport - and we're winning again! In our minds, we're start making our way back to NZ - just via Turkey, Bahrain, Hong Kong and the Philippines. 

Thank you heaps Harden for the aroha brother - never forget it! We'll see you in Dec at the wedding partner!

Western Rocker

Roma

After a few days travelling the Southern region of Italy, we returned to Roma to rejoin with our Contiki friends we met earlier. I must say, it's a different way to travel with a tour group; everything's organised, you get picked up, dropped off, fed, accommodation and events to go to. Too easy. So it's nice to get back to that kind of travel even for a bit. The tour is, as we said in a previous blog, infiltrated with Aussies! It's a party bus really. And we all know Aussies like to drink.

 

We regroup with the crew at the Imperial forums near the Colloseum for a tour. It's really nice to see everyone again! The tour was incredible. We have a tour guide named Petro. He's 77 years old and has been giving tours of Roma for the past 57 years! Needless to say, he knows everything there is to know about the places we visit and gives us beautiful stories of the history of the ancient city of Roma.

We are shown the Old Roman senate where senators would meet up to discuss issues. He also showed us where Julius Ceasar's body was put on public display after his murder and the temple where his body was cremated. One of the very few Pagan temples were, the where the females lived, who were virgins. Their mahi was to live out their lives in these quarters, in preparation and conditioning for their ultimate sacrifice. So interesting. We then went into the Collesuem - it's breathtaking! It was built in 72 AD and ook 8 years and 40,000 builders (slaves) to build. The colloseum brings a feeling of nostalgia, an eerie wairua that reminds you of how old this place really is. It was used (if you've seen the movie the Gladiator, you'll know) for the games where animals and warriors would be unleashed against each other, fighting to the death. The building itself is remarkable, it has withstood 21 centuries and numerous earthquakes and natural disasters, and still it remains (the majority of it). I found this place to be hugely impressive.

After the tour, Tu & I decided to escape one last time by ourselves and go back to our favourite restaurant, Luzzi. We found this place when we were first in Roma and its amazing and cheap. We had pene pasta, roman style chicken, 1L of vino, desert, and the a lemoncello to finish! All for 29 Euro. On a bit of a buzz we decide to buy a bottle of champagne and sit at a restaurant across from the colloseum, and marvel at it before we leave.

The next morning, we are taken to St Peters Bascillica at St Peters square. The movie Da Vinci Code or Angels and Demons (I forget which one) comes to mind when they are searching for the bomb in Vatican City... Anyway! We were given a tour by Petro again of this beautiful city. So the Vatican City is a city within a city. A country really... it has it's own flag, it's own law, it's own ruler (the Pope). We went into the Sistene Chapel and marvelled at Michaelangelo's masterpiece. We walked through the halls of the Vatican, casting our eyes on the artworks, tapestries, elaborately decorated rooms, doors and walls, the marble and gold and colours filling my eyes. Then we walked into St Peters cathedral with the domes and the statues, and the place where St Peter is buried (his tomb) and the famous Michaelangelo sculpture that some idiot tried to destroy back in the 70's and smashed the arms off Mary Magdolin. Breathtaking. To imagine this place of worship back in the days, to the millions of people who have visited it over the centuries... An amazing tour filled with so much history, it reminds me how 'young' we are at home in our building structures and architectures.

The afternoon is spent in a bus driving to our next destination - Florence!

Florence

Our next stop on the Contiki is Florence. I've heard a lot about this place... it's beauty in the architecture and the people, very different to Roma, but still as modern and filled with history just less people. I heard the kai was amazing here too so... I've got high expectations :) The first night we have out in a while and we go karaokeing. LOVED IT! Ridiculous cocktails (1 litre), bad singing and dancing the night away, we head home for some much needed rest.

The next day, we visit a leather making talk/show - very fascinating. The people there are famous for their jeweller boxes - and the lady giving the korero askes the group why the top of the box are made as such... Tu busts out - they are the hills. Wow! In three years, no one has asked that question correctly. Boom!

Florence is a beautiful city, built upon all the old Roman structures, because of the river floods that were prone to happen. The famous Charles bridge - with gold, silver and jems. The statutes there are amazing - such detail, size, weight and pure genius. Michaelangilo's David, and many other masterpieces by these old Italian artists. Dinner is set in 'Tuscany' as we dine to a 5 course meal of pasta, wine, antipastis, chicken, dessert and limoncello. DELICIOUS! Tonights outting is to Florence's largest club. We call it an early night, since we are pulling in the reigns on our budget, and we have a rather long drive to Switzerland tomorrow.

Switzerland

Just briefly, we have had a very quiet time in the city of Lucerne, visiting the Swiss Alps and going up one of the maunga to see the snow. The maunga here are amazing! And to the Aussie's excitement...snow! Our full day in Swizterland starts early and we are ready for her! Tim our tour guide gives us some interesting facts on the country and we make our way for Mt Platius. Up the gondolas, we are in the ALPS! At the half way point we erupt into a snow fight! Always nice seeing people get smashed by flying snow balls.

After some morning exercises of throwing, we jump on a larger gondola up to the summit... Wow! Suddenly some of the Aussie boys drop their dacks for a nudie run in the icy conditions! Very entertaining! We also have a delicious Swiss meal of cheese fondue, Swiss beer, sausages and 'rosti' (apparently this is a tradit Swiss meal).

Now, Switzerland is QUIET. Where we are staying there's not much clubs or anything, so we decide to stay in again tonight, besides... it's going to be a BIG weekend in Paris #cityoflove

 

Paris

The last official leg of our contiki tour was into Paris... There were plenty of 'recaps' from Tim and reminiscing...

Day 1

After a long day travelling, we pull into the Ibis budget hotel, and are given 30 mins to prepare for a night tour of Paris, by night. The bus is buzzing off the place that is Paris, its buildings, culture and lights! We take the last of the patron and head out!

The two highlights of the trip have to be seeing the Eiffel tower for the first time... Tim plays a joke, telling the bus to look left at the army barracks in search for something... and then boom on the right of the bus! There she blows! Lit up at night, it is beautiful! And the second highlight was the surprise escargot (snails) and french champagne... When in Paris eh! We need hurry home, for a surprise visitor Mahinaarangi Baker! We have drinks in our room, and korero for hours! Great night! Maybe nudged it a little too far... but thats the 'single ladies for you'.

 

Day 2

After a dusty start, and convincing the french ladies to allow for us to have a late breaky (830am) we venture on the Paris metro system... We've taken so many metro systems since being on this trip - all part of the experience! The Eiffel tower at night was amazing, and in daylight it is just the same! The views from the Eiffel Tower are amazing. The sprawl of the city is far and wide! Stunning! This steel beast is hand painted every 7 years. We try some creme brulee, 'french' fries haha and some typical Frenchie food before Tu and I solidfy our City of Love padlock on the famous Love Bridge. It's pretty cool, you put the padlock on, throw the key over the bridge into the water (imagine how many keys are in that river) and solidfy your love :)

We catch Mona Lisa at the Lourve and then hire some bikes with Mahina and cycle around Paris! It's such a stunning city and to see it by bike... Amazing. It's nice to take in a city and its sights from another perspective. We joyrided around the city, stopping at bike stops (it's free, as long as you park the bike back in the rack). Luckily enough, we head out for a real Parisian dinner... of french onion soup (OMG amazing), duck and french wine... so good. And then... to the MOULIN ROUGE! I've loved this movie since forever and couldn't wait to see the actual show, of course it's nothing like the movie, but is filled with cancan girls and guys, bare breasted, circus acts, singing, dancing and amazing flexibility haha. We have bottles and bottles of champas which was a nice little treat for the end of the trip.

Contiki - while it's a youngin kinda gig, Tu and I really enjoyed cruising with a tour group, with activities and accommodation and transport organised and not having to think too much about travelling. It takes the stress out of traveling, even for a moment. The majority of our travelling is largely us doing it on our own so this has been a nice switch up. Thanks to all the Contiki whanau for making mine and Tu's time so memorable. Europe - TICK!

 

 

 

 

 

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Trani

Trani Amokura Sciascia... x we thought of you the entire time we were here Miss Trani

 

A long trip of two and a half hours and we arrive in beautiful Trani. It's a little after 1pm and the sun is out, blue skies and the marina is looking spectacular. We find our hotel, which is fairly hidden; the only clue we had was some writing on terracotta pots outside two enormous wooden doors. Aha! We've found our home for the next two days.

 

The Mare Resort is located on the water front of the Trani Marina with beautiful sweeping viiews of the low leveled city, port and sea from it's rooftop. Our room is one of the best hotel spots we've had on the haerenga. A bit of luxury - why not! Like I said, it was a little after 1pm so we thought it's a good time to get some lunch. To our surprise, many restaurants are closed by this time; we remembered that Italians close up shop around 1pm and do not open again until 7/8pm for dinner. It's no wonder they are so slim and beautiful here in Italy; they don't have 24/7 access to food all day everday like us.

After a snack at one of the very few places that were still open we walked around the port towards the Cathedral for some snap opportunities. The water of the Adriatic Coast is so calm and clear. There's a Cathedral and Castle right on the coast. The roads here are white stone and many of the buildings are either brick or white marble. The streets are so enchanting! Small and narrow that weave around buildings, you take a look down one small road and you see venetian blinds open and planters and pots lining the small balconies, you see bicycles and people walking or small coffee shops buried in the brick building. It's magical. A truly special place.

After a little hikoi, Tu is feeling the tiredness from having driven all morning so we head home for a siesta. Dinner tonight is at Pesevenghi (google it) we were the only ones in the restaurant, which by past experience has told me that the place is clearly not that popular so maybe the quality is not that good... Heoi ano, we were greeted with the loveliest smiley lady (our host) so of course decided to stay :)

She had limited English, but managed to explain the very Italian/Trani/Puglia menu to us in English. We ended up having cheese sticks and breads for starter, with Puglia olive oil. Then we had a degustation antipasti which consisted of three antipastis to share; the first was riccotta drizzled in olive oil, paprika and walnuts. This went wonderfully with the rustic bread. The second entree was grilled vegetables of funghi (mushrooms), Italian marinated olives, grilled capsicums and blue cheese wrapped in sundried tomatoes. DELICIOUS! The third antipasti was another vegetable and cheese stack... Simply delicous

Again, this is only "appetisers". The fourth course was handmade pasta (made in the restaurant) which is a typical Puglia short pasta, with ricotta, basil, olive oil. Oh Em Gee, this ws the best pasta I've ever tasted. It was moreish and so simple, no fancy vegetables or meat, just pasta and sauce. I loved every mouthful

The sixth and final course was for Tu; grilled sword fish and patate (rosemary roasted potatoes) and I had grilled beef (local beef) with patate. I loved my dish but Tu didn't quite enjoy his sword fish... so we switched haha. I loved the fish (and the beef actually) it was caught locally and was fresh. All the whille, this is being washed down with house Blanco. Seriously... such a good meal. After feeling so stuffed, we just had to leave and go straight home to bed. Food coma much?! We said goodbye to the lady (sorry, I forget her name) with a kiss on the cheek and say thank you. She was fascinated by us being Maori and Tu being Italian. Since we had the place to ourselves, she was all ours and she loved to converse with us. We told her that we have a niece called Trani and she reckons "not possible"!

Day 1 in Trani is done and dusted

 

Day 2, we wake up to the best European Breakfast I've tried thus far in Europe. Fresh orange juice, eggs, cold cuts of meat (proscuitto, salami and other meats), fresh cheeses, cereals, fruits, pastries, muffins, crossaints, juices, toast, yoghurt and coffee. Delicious! After our breakfast we go and grab a bicycle each from our hotel for a joyride around the city. Tu was really keen to find Vico La Rosa, a little street where his tupuna; Nicola Sciascia lived in the 1840's. We found it! He lived at number 6 Vico La Rosa, so nice to be here and see where this tupuna lived. After this we pulled up on our bush bikes to a coffee place for some mid-morning pick me up and then cycled into town for some shopping.

Still full from our amazing breakfast, we headed home around 1pm for the traditional Italian siesta! Haha I like this! Our flash resort room has a large bath so we relax and unwind a little for the afternoon, pop some rosso and take a bath and a nap. Dinner time again and we venture into the city area (last night we ate on the waterfront, tonight we dine in the city). The city is BUSTLING by this time. Kids, adults, kaumatua, babies - everyone is out and it's 7.30/8.00pm! Lots of vendors and markets are open, all the shops are open, restaurants, cafes, gelato bars are all open too. The city is alive!

We decide we'd eat gelato for desert (Tu is heaven, he had a melon one... omg!) and I try the berries and cream ice cream. Yup. Heaven. So many great places to eat around here, so we pick one and just walk in. Again it's just us... but this soon changes and the entire restaurant is bustling with diners. We ordered a pizza, and a mixed grill plate, with antipastis and patate as well. A 1/4 caraffe of blanco and a coca cola... food coma once again. We couldn't finish our pizza so got it to go. Tu (as always, the most beautiful man in the world) reckons we give it to the vendor we saw earlier who was sitting in the cold selling rings and who also couldn't speak (he wasn't a mute, but he couldnt talk, he could only mouth words). He appreciated it and asked me to choose a ring from his selection to take home! We spoke to him and his friend about Italy, Aotearoa, tupuna Nicola Sciascia, niece Trani and they were again shocked, telling us that Trani was once more beautiful. We found that hard to believe as in our eyes it was already the most beautiful part of Italy we had visited...

Nicola Sciascia was born April 13th 1840 in the village of Trani in the Italian province of Bari. He was the eldest Son of Carlo Sciascia and Maria Giancinta di Toma. The Sciascia couple had six children – Margherita, Nicola, Giacinto, Bartolomeo, Rafaella and Orsolina. Not much is known about Nicola’s early life except that it can be imagined that the family was moderately well off and perhaps educated, because all six children survived into adulthood and all but Orsolina married and had children - a fairly rare occurrence in those far off times. Father Carlo was a fisherman so the sea was in Nicola's blood. At age 16 Nicola left the family home and went to Fiume, a city to the north of Bari. He was granted a safe conduct pass to move from one province to another by the Duke of Traetto.

The first we hear of Nicola in New Zealand is when he obtained employment with the Marine Department as coxswain at Foxton. In 1882 at the age of 42 he married Riria McGregor at Foxton. They had 11 children - the first Margaret Carlotta was born in 1883. Then followed John de Tomba, 1884, Mary Christina, 1885, Nicola James, 1887, Lydia Louisa, 1888, Elsie Maud 1890, Charles Rangiwawahia 1891, Ellen Ruth 1892, Emma Hannah 1895, Frank Tariuha 1896 and Pirihira 'Waikawa in 1898.

It's said he taught some of his children astronomy or how to recognise the constellations of the skies and he most certainty would have imparted knowledge about the weather and tides to his family. Coupled with his wife's own natural skills and abilities any children of the Sciascia’s would have made an impact on New Zealand's life anyway, but the feeling remains that the early death of Nicola shattered the family.

Nicola Sciascia’s lonely grave on Portland Island off the Mahia Peninsula stands as a tribute to the baby born in Trani in 1840, who lived in this country for no more than thirty years and leaves the inheritance of at least four thousand descendants.

(Taken from sciascianz.com)

No reira, ka tuku nga mihi aroha, nga mihi maioha ki a Koro Sonny Sciascia, nana nga hononga o te whanau Sciascia o te kainga ki te whanau Sciascia o Trani i whakapiri. Mei kore ko koe e te rangatira! Moe mai ra koe i roto i nga ringa o nga tupuna. Ka whai whakaaro nui ki a koe i a maua e hopara ana i tenei whenua ataahua. Moe mai, moe mai, moe mai!

The next day, we have an early start as we're headed back to Roma to join up with the Contiki whanau... 4 hours of driving... here we go :)

 

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Napoli - Pizza

So we thought that a blog should be dedicated to just Napoli as there was so much that happened in both of these places, and of course have a special blog for Trani :)

 

So after leaving Cassino, we navigated our way to Napoli, about 1.5 hours south. By now we have figured out the toll system and we breeze in and out of Cassino and Napoli with ease. Upon arriving to Napoli though, we are met by two different stops of officers who ask us to slow down and wound down the window. They look legit, so we do. They speak Italian and we figure they're asking what we're doing? We quickly tell them we're staying in Naples one night before heading off again and they let us pass. These officers are armed. Two separate stops. Both (assummingly) asking the same thing. We are reminded of where we are; Napoli is and can be a dangerous place for visitors.

 

BOOM we are thrown into the thick of the traffic with no road lines, lanes or road rules. Thousands of scooters, cars, buses, trams and trucks are wrestling their way through the traffic. It's the most craziest manic traffic ever! Tu is driving thank the gods and I'm helping him navigate to our accommodation. So many close calls, but Tu's Italian blood kicks in and he's right at home weaving in and our of fast moving Italian drivers.

 

Our accommodation was really difficult to find; after a few attempts at speaking Italian to some residents, we find our host (AirBNB) and settle into our apartment for the night. She owns a quaint one bedroom apartment on the top of a 5 level building, with a rooftop that overlooks part of the Mediterranean coast, some castles and cathedral domes and residences. From the top of the apartment is looks really busy, cluttered with buildings and cars. So we took a moment to pop the cork off a vino from Tuscany and eat some Lindt chocolates as the sun goes down.

 

U

We grabbed cocktails at a local bar with an antipasto platter and then were recommended by the bar bouncer to visit a pizzeria around the corner that of course, sells the famous Marguerita pizza. Now, Napoli is where pizza comes from, it was created and invented here. Simple ingredients, thin base, almost soggy in the middle.. UNBELIEVABLE. We try this pizza with a litre of Rosso and some chocolate torte as well. It was a beautiful night actually. Tu and I sat there wining and dining and talking about life and what's in store for us. It's exciting times and we again are reminded of how blessed we are to be where we are and doing this haerenga...

 

A few drinks at another bar and Tu is keen to have a bit of a rage at the nightclub at the bottom of our apartment. Me - not so much... Tired by now and the vino is kicking in. Sleepy time. We decide to stay in and save our money and energy for the next stop; Trani!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Cassino - Kei wareware tatou

Moving anywhere in Italy takes time, a lot of time. The morning out of Roma had some jobs for us; getting a new camera, police report, traveling the metro with all luggage, the whole rental car process, and then finally the road... In our free upgrade Merc. Winning!

Thanks to 'tomtom' we were able to navigate our way out of Roma. Mum had warned me of the tolls and they were the first challenge. We managed to get in the wrong lane, and were speaking to an operator that didn't speak english. After no progress and a line of angry Italian drivers behind us, they lifted the barrier and we were on the road again!

All road trips need their sounds, and we had ours! Jamming to our Czech jazz cd we brought in Prague, all felt complete. The other cd was a compilation reggae cd that my mate Lachie gave to us in the Caymans. Also another hit banger! Chur bro!

So we're coming up to our turn off for Cassino, and we hit another toll. What they required was a ticket out of Roma - the one we f'd up, and we are then presented with a 81 Euro ticket. Killer!

Heoi, we then arrive at our cute accomodation - Hotel La Pace. Such lovely and helpful people they are. If you ever travel to Cassino, stay here whanau! Anyway, we get to our room and have an absolutely stunning view of Monte Cassino, with the evening Italian sun setting on the maunga - it was mesmerising

After unpacking we decide to venture out - to a basically deserted town. All shops are closed for siesta. So Dee and I then locate some vino and head back to our room, to research and study up on some of the korero of our soldiers here in Cassino. I am so sad of what happened, but also so very proud of them - especially our 28th Maori Battalion and their kaha and mana over the battle for the railway.

After a big day, we decide to eat in at the hotel and get in an early night for apopo.

Day 2

We wake to the whole entire town, rohe, submerged in morning fog. Something wicked - not evil but impressive. We get our maps and begin to navigate up the maunga. We eventually break through the fog (cloud forrest like) and hit the morning sun! And it is hot!

We get to the monastery, the abbey, and it has such presence. Before the monastery, it was an ancient place of worship for the Romans - for Apollo. Chur! Instead of an hour guided tour for 35 Euro, Dee guides us through with a 3 Euro book! After our thorough tour, we decend the maunga.

But on the way down, we visit and acknowledge the Polish urupa. As it was them that finally took Cassino in mid 1944. Many lay there, and have a huge mermorial.

After visiting the Polish, we head for the Commonwealth urupa, in search of our Kiwi "boys"... In the fog, we make it and it is so very cold. We enter the urupa and are silently greeted by a sea of crosses. We quitely walk through trying to find them, Canadian, English... Many many men, boys...

We finally find our Kiwi / Maori boys, and they are situated in the front right hand corner, in rows of 23, many deep, and two sets of them, 100s. Dee and I walk past every headstone of every soldier. Many last names are familar, not necessarily realtions of people I know, but reminded me how easily this could have been my generation...

Dee and I have brought over two poppies from home, to lay for our soldiers. We find two young Maori soldiers (Te Kuru and Ruha) and sung a waiata, mihi and leave. We will not forget them.

Next we make our way for the Cassino Railway, where the Maori Battalion fought so hard for, and paid for heavily.

"Of the 200 A and B Company boys who started the attack only 40 Ngapuhi and 26 Arawa were able to walk out with a few dazzed stragglers finding there way out under cover of the next night. The 28th Maori Battalion suffered 128 casualties and the valiant un-armed Kiwi sappers lost 30 souls with the galant 4 Indian Division battalions suffering very high casualties and could do absolutely no more.

As humble as this railway station memorial may appear it has huge significance to the Maori and indeed to 30 Pakeha families here at home, where a few 1000 metres away from it their boys lie at the beautifull Cassino Commonwealth War Graves Cemetary, proudly part of the town of Cassino.

As stated above Major-General Howard Kippenberger after only five weeks as overall Commander of the 2NZEF disastrously walked onto a German land mine while attempting to get a broad out look and view the strategic situation from Mount Trocchio on the 2nd of March 1944. The Maori Battalion on learning of this quickly decided to send a letter of condolence and wishes as a mark of high regard for the General for a rapid recovery from his wounds they being, one foot blown off and the other leg amputated below the knee. The letter of address was signed by the Officers and NCOs of every platoon in the Battalion. The General in spite of his condition insisted on replying and later had the 28 Battalion letter framed"

We find the memorial at the Cassino railway station. It was put up in 1994 by returned service men. 50 years on... Dee and I are here 70 years on - and still we have not forgotten. We left a pounamu on the plaque there for them, and the sun is finally breaking through the fog! After all the exploring we nail some of Cassino's finest pasta, collect more vino on the way home, soak in a bath to warm up, and slowly prepare for dinner.

We are leaving the hotel the next morning and decide to gift the hotel owner a book on Cassino, of poems from NZ, he really appreciated it. Because of his generosity, in knowledge and in spirit he was the right person. He suggested a place for Dee and I to eat, and we venture out again! We get there and their business hours do throw us one final time... It is 6.45pm and the restaurant doesn't open until 7.30pm... What to do? Shop! I had seen a few days early a jumper with rapper Biggie Smalls on it - so we mission back, get it and head back for tea. Final dinner was fine; but the burger no bun. Ordering in Italy, is like a box of chocolates - you never know what you're gonna get.

We check out, and are given a large photo print from the hotel owner, very kind gesture and a bottle of wine! We get advice upon leaving about our 81 euro fine out Roma, and tells us to head for Punto Blue - we get there and the fine is waved and we only pay the 7 euro fee - winning!

And that was Cassino.

"I te tonga o te ra, tae noa ki tona aranga ake, ka maumahara tonu tatou ki a ratou - kei wareware tatou"

 

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European Tour: First leg

AMSTERDAM

Thanks to Uncle David, we arrive to our meeting point for the Contiki nice and early, ready to check in and meet the rest of the crew at 6am. Our bus is made up of 4 Kiwis/Maori; 3 Canadians; 1 Korean and; 43 fricken Aussies! Our tour guide is Australian (Tim) and the cool Portugese bus driver is Joe.

We have a comfy coach that is going to our home for the next while. We take a ferry from Dover to France and then drive through France, Belgium and into The Netherlands! First time ever driving through four countries! Our first stop is of course, Amsterdam!

Arrival to our first hotel and we are paired with a nice young couple from Australia; Steele & Ariana. A pokey little room, with bunk beds (hotel? more like hostel) and prepare the interesting evening ahead. We are taken to a "typically Amsterdam show" in the middle of the red light district. And I'll leave it there... After this, we venture around the hustle and bustle of the town square, trying local delights and finally end up at a bar with the rest of the Contiki crew. A few drinks later, we're dancing to hip hop in a night club. Classic.

The next day was a bit lethargic-y but we managed to haul butt and get on the coach by 8am. Off to the cheese and clogs factory! We got to see how clogs and cheese are made and then got dropped off in town for some sightseeing. Tu & I decided to visit the Rijks museum and the IAMsterdam sign. Despite the line being ridiculously long to get into the museum, we persevered. That evening, we venutred out again for a group dinner at the Sea Palace (asian cuisine) and a boat cruise through the canals of Amsterdam. Afterwards, our tour guide showed us a couple of bars including a shots bar. Over 220 different shots are on their menu. Some of the favs were the "Harry Potter", "Chemistry", "Sunflower" and the "Lamborghini". Ouch. Next morning was a bit rough...

BERLIN

We departed for Berlin at 8am, this would be our longest day travelling of 7 hours. Initially I thought that travelling by coach was going to really suck. Thankfully I was wrong - our bus is so comfortable and easy to just sit there and nod off. So sleeping was on the agenda for today. Arrival to Berlin... we were getting excited. We would spend New Year's Eve here! Today is the 30th of December so not long to go. An early night after dinner served Tu and I well as we prepared for the big one on NYE.

Happy New Year's Eve! We set off for a walking tour with a local guide around Berlin. Freezing temperatures and 3 hours worth of walking later, we were much more knowledgeable and appreciative of this historical place we were visiting. We visited numerous cathedrals and monuments, heard about the place where Hitler lived and subsequently killed himself. We visited a large Jewish memorial which was an odd exhibition, but quite eerie too. We visited and heard all about Checkpoint Charlie, visited the famous Branderburg Gate (where we will be spending NYE!) and heard about and visited the Berlin Wall.

Tu and I then walked into the city and found some pop up xmas markets for lunch and had a tradit German meal; goulash for Tu and I had currywerst, some kind of sausagey thing with some mulled wine for me and a red for Tu. We then ventured to the German Museum of History which was very insightful for Tu especially with the World War 2. In preparation for the big night ahead, we grab some ales and head back to the hostel to spruce up a little :)

As a Contiki group, we venture to the Brandenburg Gate to party on with 1 million other people from all across the globe! Had an amazing night, Tu found us a posse, we had a crew and celebrated the night away with hot wine, Patron, and Bollinger (which we didn't get to) and found our way home on the metro. Before moe, Tu and I went and had some schnitzel and chips before showering and moe time.

Up early the next day, and off to PRAGUE! Feeling a little bit jaded today, but feeling awesome!

PRAGUE

So the drive from Berlin to Prague was relatively painless. All we do is sit there, relax and sleep. We stopped in Dresden for lunch, so Tu and I decided to have Spanish Tapas which was delicious. We then continued onto Prague and had a walking tour around the city, visiting the castle and the cathedrals. It's interesting because only 20% of Czech people are Cathloic, the rest are communists, yet most of the city and its architecture heavily draw on Cathloic/Christianism. We walked down Charles Bridge and saw the statues and monuments of the apostles and walked through town square past the astrological clock, night markets, restaurants and lights. We then walked to where our coach was and all of a sudden the biggest, best display of fireworks exploded right above our bus. It was fabulous!!! Arrival to Plus Hostel, this night we managed to score a room by ourselves and settled in for the night, had a beautiful meal, sauna and a hot shower - wa moe.

The next day in Prague, we hung out with our old roomies, Steele and Ariana for the day and visited the weirdest quirkiest museum. So strange, the majority of the exhibits were a mixture of banking, historical and film history... Ummm... Anyway, the clock struck 12pm so we reckoned it was beer oclock. Mulled wine, beers and street food of potatoe dumplings, smoked pork and cabbage was on the cards. We sipped and ate in the middle of the Main Street in Prague. Classic. The kai was tradit czech kai too, we also sampled a twisty donut that was covered in cinnamon and almonds and then I tried these kebabs with potato spirals that were then deep fried and sprinkled with salt and chilli... AMAZZZING!

Despite eating as if it's lunch, we then boarded a boat with some of the other Contiki whanau for a lunch cruise through the Prague canals and a tour guide gave us some great korero about her homelands. We learnt some interesting history about the communist party and the impact it had on the Czech people. We tried the local goulash and dishes and then headed off to the Dubliner pub for a pint! After a couple of drinks, we headed to another part of town for a tour of an underground nuclear war bunker that was built in the 20th Century for civilians to retreat in case of nuclear war. It was very interesting, seeing the gas masks and guns and stuff. For dinner, Tu tried the famous pork knuckle (that's well known in these parts) and we called it an early night, as tomorrow... we leave for Vienna, Austria!

VIENNA

Driving to VIenna, we stopped into Kunta Norva for an hour, a quaint, quiet town still inside of the Czech Republic. After this we visited a service station with outlet shopping and restaurants. The restaurants here in Europe allow smoking inside. So disgusting. Heoi ano, when in Rome. Or Vienna, in this case. We had to eat in an area that was still smokey, but much less than the rest of the restaurant. So different here. I remember when we could smoke in bars at home... thank goodness those times have changed.

Arrival to our hostel, tonight we're sharing with Brad & Jennifer. We spruce up, pop the Bollinger and get on our way to the Strauss and Mozart concert in Vienna city.. it was truly beautiful with operatic singers and ballet dancers. Loved the music and it was nice to dress up a little and go with my baby to the concert. Love how we appreciate these kinds of things together. The majority of the Contiki were dogging the idea of classical music. Those poor little youngins just don't get it :)

In consideration for an early morning flight to Roma the next day, we politely declined the invitation for drinks at the hostel bar and turned in for the night. Roma tomorrow... this has been the most anticipated leg of the trip for me. I wonder what it will bring... CIAO!

Oh and the hashtag for Contiki is... #noregrets

It's a pretty good way to live life!!!

 

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